Our sharpening service will provide a good serviceable edge on the blade. Consider this as a general guideline only. The Edge ratings in particular are somewhat subjective and each blade can vary. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of. Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. However for reasons we won’t get into here, this is not the case. A common misconception is that swords should all be “razor sharp”. Moderately Sharp is close, but may need to be touched up to get the best performance. Possible values could be “Rebated” meaning the edge is intentionally thickened for safety, “Blunt” meaning the edge is fairly thick with little to no taper, ‘Unsharpened” which would taper to the edge but stop short of having any real cutting ability, “Slightly Sharp, Moderately Sharp, Sharp, or Very Sharp” Sharp or Very Sharp are considered good for cutting swords. The “Edge” spec will tell you about how sharp a blade is. A very high POB will result in a sword that feels heavier than it actually is and is difficult to wield. In general, a low POB results in good point control well suited to a thrusting blade, while a higher POB adds impact to a cleaving blade.
A POB of 3”- 5” usually results in a well balanced sword, but does depend on the type of sword. In practice however, there are many reasons why you may not want this for a particular sword. In theory a sword with a POB of 0” is perfectly balanced. A number of 0” would balance exactly at the guard, while a negative number will have a POB in the hilt itself. It refers to the point on the blade where the sword achieves a perfect balance. stands for Point Of Balance, this is measured in inches from the hilt down the blade.
#DYNASTY FORGE BUSHI FOLDED O KATANA PROFESSIONAL#
Polishing/sharpening of our swords should be undertaken by a trained professional only.P.O.B. As well, even with proper maintenance, rust may form. Over time, especially with hard tamashigiri practice, the mirror finish will begin to scuff and the edge begin to dull. If a blade is not actively being used for practice, it should still be cleaned occasionally. A blade should be cleaned and re-oiled with a quality cleaning kit after use and never sheathed without proper treatment, as dirt and oils can build up within the saya itself. High-carbon steel, by nature of its physical properties, is prone to rust and requires proper maintenance. Proper care for your blade is necessary to ensure that no rust/oxidization forms. This line is the first choice for cutting practitioners of all levels looking for a no-frills no-nonsense performance oriented sword. Capable of taking a considerable bend and returning true, these blades make up for their workman-like looks with unparalleled cutting performance. Rather, it is the most durable blade among the swords we produce. The Musha class is anything but entry-level. For the collector, the Bushi class is a great entry point into the appreciation of Japanese swords. Therefore, the Bushi class blades are the best choice for practitioners looking for a blade with traditional handling characteristics in a more durable finish. This polish, while refined enough to reveal the Hada (on the folded pieces) and Hamon, is also more resistant to scuffing and scratches. The Bushi class combines a clay-tempered blade with a fine hybrid polish. Nevertheless, these blades handle equally well in the hands of the practitioner. Each blade is clay-tempered and hand-polished on Japanese stones, creating a best-in-class collector-grade sword. The flagship line, the Daimyo class blades are made in strict adherence to the traditional process.
A brief overview of each class is provided below.ĭaimyo Class (Tamahagane, Forge-Folded, 1095) Dynasty Forge produces Japanese arms in three classes, each a distinct combination of craftsmanship and value that appeals to various customer needs.
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